Lam behind Tènten

Something really special about this platform is our ability to uncover founder stories of restaurants that may not have the social media hype / the lines out the door. We even think the food at these spots taste just as good, if not better, without the high expectations we set while waiting in line even before doors open. So this gem is a little hard for us to share because it feels like a secret that’s too good to be true, but we think it’s time to let go. Welcome to Tènten!

In Vietnamese, Tènten is an expression of surprise. It aligns well with their mission of bringing northern Vietnamese flavors to nyc (most places serve southern styles) and the reaction we had when we first tasted their signature pho. While we were interviewing Tènten’s co-founder Lam, 10 different people came in asking for their regular—the bahn mi. It’s easy to tell that it’s a spot you either love or you don’t know at all. For a laugh, watch Josh ask for his regular here.

Lam is originally from Hanoi, Vietnam, and moved to nyc for school eight years ago. When we asked what inspired him to open a restaurant, he recalled that “as a kid, I ate a lot of pho back at home. And I’ve always been involved in the restaurant business—I have a couple of restaurants and cafes back home.” He’s a restaurateur through and through.

From running his own restaurants, he’s learned that it takes a lot of work—this is sounding like a common theme—especially in the first few months when they had to tackle everything from construction to interior design. In fact, he recounts that the problems didn’t seem to stop coming. Well, it has definitely come together nicely, so we’d have to say the hard work was well worth it!

We love to ask what makes running a restaurant rewarding. Lam remarks that “in the U.S. in general, there's not many Hanoian (northern Vietnamese) restaurants. So most of the Vietnamese restaurants here are all focused on southern flavors. Just being able to bring the flavors from childhood to New York City has been a blessing so far and I hope that a lot of customers will enjoy our food.”

Lam’s first job in the restaurant space was as a barista making coffee and tea. Tènten has a variety of drinks including Vietnamese iced coffee, milo milkshakes, and iced tea on their menu. We tried The Salt-mate, their signature coffee, topped with whipped creamy salt foam and cocoa powder—not too sweet, not too salty, just right.

Bites to Savour

Do you have any hot takes on the NYC food scene?

“A lot of Vietnamese say that there aren't any good Vietnamese restaurants around the city but I think that's different now with a lot of interesting openings. One spot is Lai Rai that serves Bún Đậu Mắm Tôm, which is a very homey dish for northern Vietnamese like myself. And also they're doing a lot of cool things with their Vietnamese wine bar right next to their restaurant. I think that in the next 5 to 10 years, Vietnamese food in New York City will definitely have its place.”

If you were to make a dish with only 3 ingredients, what would you make?

“Rice noodle, beef, and beef bone. Our very own pho.”

If you could only have one item on your menu, what would it be?

“Definitely our Tái Gầu. It's like a classic. It's what we do. It’s something that we grow up eating and honestly, for me, I can have it for breakfast, lunch, or dinner, or even late at night. It doesn't really matter. Even seven days a week.”

Lastly, who should we feature next on our newsletter?

“Lai Rai. It's a new Vietnamese wine bar.“

Tènten is tucked away on the busy streets of Chinatown. Walk into 119 Baxter St. 11am-7pm (Sun-Thurs) or 12pm-5:30pm (Fri & Sat) and make sure to try the Phở Tái Gầu!

See Lam & Tènten come to life on our Instagram

With compliments to the chef,

Jenn and Josh

Co-founders, Shortlist New York